Summary:
Overwhelming recommendation was to go with a tri-specific frame rather than a road frameeven if were modified for triathlon. Just one respondent chose "None of the above matters - it's the rider that's key". Tri-frames are what the folks who responded also said they ride. Comments emphasized comfort/fit as the most important criteria, which can be achieved with a quality custom job, or having an expert do the set up.
Personal note: My research still points me towards getting another well-made fine-fitting carbon frame -- with tri geometry.Compared to titanium, carbon won't survive being dropped in a vat of acid but it may be lighter, has an excellent ride feel, and can be just as strong as titanium.
Details and selected comments...
from Justin:
"if you want a pure tri bike and want confort think of either carbon or ti, (2.5K -4k)for that i figure u should look at a litespeed or kestrel ....if you want all out custom(4k-6K), then go with seven, serotta (legend ti), calfee (they do have a custom model) i wouldn't go with a colnago c-40, way too much money. if you go with aluminum, you got way too many options to choose from, elite, cervelo, cannondale, trek, specialized (thye have that new festina edition road bike onthe web, nice bike), you name it. ........if you want somethign that will be good for the next 4 or 5 years that performs, but dont' want to wast taht much time deciding, the litespeed saber is a good safe option"
[from Ed: Cervelo's got a frame with a cool reversible seatpost that lets you have an effective seat angle of either 73 or 78 degrees on the same bike.Also, informative and interesting technical Q&A on their web site at www.cervelo.com ]
from James:
"Saul up this way is hot on Strong Frames, there located out in Montana but do have a web site. It is allcustom but seems pretty reasonable on pricing. It would probably be a goodplace to start."
[from Ed: The web site is www.strongframes.com, they do steel, titanium and aluminum custom work]
from Don:
"...two keys to findnig the "best" bike. First you the rider must ultimately be comfortableon the bike. If that doesn't happen, then everything else is moot. Second, the geometry should be such that you each pedal stroke clearly translates the amount of power from your legs into your drive train. In other words, the effort you exert should translate into speed. If you are in a cramped position that does not permit proper blood flow to the legs, your power output will be diminished. If your seat tube sets you to far forward or back, pedal strokes will lack the efficiency envisioned by the designers of clipless pedals; power in both the upstroke and the downstroke. There is an enormous value to having a professional measure you prior to buying your bike AND when making final adjustments in set-up. Make sure that whoever ultimately sets up your bike can give you 45 minutes to anhour to properly position you on the bike. If you are going to spend big money on a titanium bike, I would recommend speaking with Sol about having one custom built. This will guarantee a fit that is comfortable and efficient. It will takemore time and cost slightly more money, but the price differene is not terribly severe and you'll never outgrow the bike.....Feel free to consult with me on color choices, this is KEY!"
[from Ed: Don, If I replace my retro helmet with a new one, is it a fashion faux pas to have it match the bike?].
from Chuck:
"This mans experience was in going from a modified road frame to a tri frame dramatically reduced and has often totally eliminated back pain early in the run - especially in long distance events.I also think that the tri geometry gives more stability to the front end in the aero bar positon - which is where you should be 90% of the time."
[from Ed: I've had Chuck pass me on a climb. He's in the aero bars and I'm out of the saddle]